Lyon in 2 days

Morning

• Vieux Lyon and the Traboules1h30

  Start in Vieux Lyon while the lanes are quiet, hunting the hidden traboules by their bronze lion plaques and walking the long passage from Rue du Boeuf to Rue Saint-Jean. Push the doors gently and keep your voice down, as people live behind them.

  TipThe traboules are covered passages that cut through courtyards and between streets, built so silk workers could move bolts of cloth under cover, and about forty are open to the public in Vieux Lyon. They are free but many sit behind residential doors, so look for the small bronze plaques and lion markers by the entrances, push the door gently and keep quiet as people live here. The most famous run is the long traboule from 27 Rue du Boeuf to 54 Rue Saint-Jean, best walked in the morning before the tour groups arrive.

• Saint-Jean Cathedral and Astronomical Clock45 min

  Step into the Gothic Saint-Jean cathedral in the heart of the old town for its 14th-century astronomical clock, timing your visit for the midday animation. Entry is free, but avoid Mass times if you want to look around freely.

  TipThe Gothic cathedral of Saint-Jean in the heart of Vieux Lyon mixes Romanesque and Gothic stonework and holds a 14th-century astronomical clock that chimes and sets tiny figures moving at set times of day. Entry is free and it opens daily, though it closes to visitors during Mass, so avoid service times if you want to look around freely. Check the posted times for the clock's animation, usually around midday and early afternoon, and dress modestly as it is a working cathedral.

Afternoon

• 1h

  Have a light lunch in Vieux Lyon before the climb, keeping it simple so you save your appetite for the bouchon tonight. Avoid the busiest cathedral-side terraces, which run tourist prices.

• Fourviere Basilica1h15

  Take the funicular up from the Saint-Jean station to the white Fourviere basilica, going inside for the mosaics and out to the esplanade for the panorama over the two rivers. The ride uses a standard TCL ticket and saves the steep walk.

  TipThe white hilltop basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere has a lavish mosaic and gilt interior and the best panorama over the city and the two rivers from the esplanade beside it. Entry to the church and the esplanade is free and it opens daily from early morning, while the guided rooftop tours cost a few euros and must be booked at the desk. Take the funicular up from the Saint-Jean station in Vieux Lyon on a standard TCL ticket rather than walking the steep climb, and come near sunset for the light over the Presqu'ile.

• Roman Theatres of Fourviere1h30

  Walk down to the two Roman theatres just below the basilica, the remains of ancient Lugdunum, and sit on the old stone tiers before dipping into the Lugdunum museum. The open site is free; the museum closes on Mondays, so check the day.

  TipJust below the basilica lie two Roman theatres from the first century BC, the remains of ancient Lugdunum, alongside the excellent Lugdunum museum built into the hillside. The open archaeological site is free to wander and you can sit on the old stone tiers, while the museum charges a small entry fee and closes on Mondays. In June and July the larger theatre hosts the Nuits de Fourviere festival, so parts may be fenced for staging, but you can still see the ruins from the paths.

Evening

• Bouchon Bistros2h

  Come back down for dinner at a certified bouchon, ordering quenelles, andouillette or salade lyonnaise with a jug of Beaujolais. Book a day ahead and look for the Les Bouchons Lyonnais sticker to avoid the tourist traps.

  TipA bouchon is the traditional Lyonnais bistro, small and convivial, serving hearty plates like quenelles, andouillette sausage, salade lyonnaise and the pink praline tart. The good ones book out, so reserve a table a day or two ahead and look for the Les Bouchons Lyonnais certification sticker to avoid the tourist traps around the cathedral. Lunch is the better-value meal, and expect communal tables, a jug of Beaujolais and no fuss; some close at weekends and in August, so check first.

Morning

• Presqu'ile and Place Bellecour1h15

  Cross to the Presqu'ile and walk from the vast Place Bellecour up Rue de la Republique toward the Terreaux squares, browsing the shops as they open. It is free and always open, and the tourist office on Bellecour sells the Lyon City Card if you want it.

  TipThe Presqu'ile is the shopping and cafe heart of Lyon, running from the vast gravel Place Bellecour, one of the largest squares in Europe, north through Rue de la Republique to the Terreaux quarter and the opera. It is free and always open, best walked in the late afternoon when the shops are busy and the squares fill. The tourist office on Place Bellecour sells the Lyon City Card if you plan to pack in museums and transport, which can pay off over two full days.

• Croix-Rousse and the Silk Hill1h30

  Take the metro up to Croix-Rousse for the silk-weavers' hill, the daily morning market and the monumental Cour des Voraces traboule. Come before lunchtime while the market is still going, then walk down through the passages.

  TipCroix-Rousse was the workshop of the canut silk weavers, whose tall windowed lofts still line the hill, linked by their own traboules including the monumental Cour des Voraces with its open stone staircase. It is free to explore on foot, and the daily morning market along the Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is the best time to come, ending around lunchtime. Take the metro up to the Croix-Rousse stop to save the steep climb, then walk down through the passages toward the Presqu'ile.

Afternoon

• Lyon's Painted Walls45 min

  On the way down, find Lyon's giant trompe-l'oeil murals, the Mur des Canuts up in Croix-Rousse and the Fresque des Lyonnais near the Saone showing the Lumiere brothers and Paul Bocuse. They are free and outdoors, best in flat midday light.

  TipLyon is famous for its trompe-l'oeil murals, huge painted walls that fool the eye, the biggest being the Mur des Canuts in Croix-Rousse and the Fresque des Lyonnais near the Saone showing famous locals from the Lumiere brothers to Paul Bocuse. They are free and outdoors, viewable at any time, and best photographed in flat midday light when there are no hard shadows across the paint. The Fresque des Lyonnais sits on the corner of Rue de la Martiniere; combine the two with a walk down from Croix-Rousse.

• Musee des Confluences2h

  Take tram T1 south to the Musee des Confluences where the rivers meet, allowing about two hours for the science and anthropology collections inside the striking glass building. It closes on Mondays; buy a ticket to skip the weekend queue.

  TipThis striking steel-and-glass science and anthropology museum stands where the Rhone and the Saone meet, its deconstructivist shape alone worth the tram ride south. It charges a modest entry fee, closes on Mondays and is quietest on weekday afternoons, so buy a ticket at the desk or online to skip the weekend queue. Take tram T1 to the Musee des Confluences terminus, allow about two hours for the wide-ranging collections, and combine it with a walk along the confluence point outside.

Evening

• Quenelles, Pralines and Local Wine2h

  Head back to the Presqu'ile for the evening and seek out the local specialities, a pike quenelle, a slice of pink praline tart or cervelle de canut, with a glass of Cotes du Rhone. Ask for a pot lyonnais if you want the wine served the traditional way.

  TipBeyond the bouchons, seek out the Lyonnais specialities: the pike quenelle in a creamy sauce, the bright pink praline tart in the bakery windows, the cervelle de canut herbed fresh cheese, and a glass of Beaujolais or Cotes du Rhone from the surrounding vineyards. Buy pralines and pastries to take home from a patisserie like a branch of the local chains rather than the airport, where prices jump. Ask for a pot lyonnais, the thick-based 46cl bottle, if you want the wine served the traditional local way.