Munich in 2 days

Morning

• Marienplatz and the New Town Hall Glockenspiel1h

  Start on Marienplatz for the 11am Glockenspiel show on the New Town Hall, standing back across the square for the full view of the jousting figures. Then ride the lift up the town hall tower for a first look over the Altstadt rooftops.

  TipThe Glockenspiel in the New Town Hall tower plays its jousting-knights show at 11am and noon year-round, with an extra 5pm performance from March to October; stand back toward the far side of the square for the full view of the figures. It is free and takes about ten minutes, so arrive a few minutes early, then ride the lift up the town hall tower for a rooftop view over the Altstadt.

• Frauenkirche30 min

  Walk two minutes to the Frauenkirche, the twin-domed cathedral that anchors the skyline, and step inside for free to find the dark 'devil's footprint' set in the floor by the entrance. Check whether the tower climb is open if you want a second viewpoint.

  TipThe twin onion-domed towers of the cathedral are Munich's skyline symbol, and entry to the church itself is free; look for the Teufelstritt, the dark 'devil's footprint' set in the floor by the entrance. The south tower reopens for climbs after long restoration works, so check whether the lift is running before you plan on the view, and dress respectfully as it is an active church.

Afternoon

• Viktualienmarkt1h15

  Head to the Viktualienmarkt for lunch among the food stalls; grab a Weisswurst with sweet mustard and a pretzel before noon, and sit a while at the market's own rotating beer garden in the middle. Browse the cheese, bread and produce stands as you go.

  TipThis open-air food market runs Monday to Saturday and shuts by late afternoon, with stalls of cheese, sausage, bread and produce plus a permanent beer garden in the middle that rotates which Munich brewery it pours. Grab a Weisswurst with sweet mustard and a pretzel before noon, the traditional cut-off for eating the white sausages, and note most stalls close Sundays.

• Munich Residenz and Treasury2h15

  Walk north to the Munich Residenz, the sprawling former royal palace, and take the combined ticket for the state rooms and the Treasury of crown jewels using the free audio guide. Budget a good two hours and check the earlier winter closing time.

  TipThe former royal palace of the Bavarian Wittelsbach rulers packs 130 rooms, and a combined ticket covers the Residenz Museum, the Treasury of crown jewels and the rococo Cuvilliés Theatre. Budget at least two hours and pick up the free audio guide included with entry; it rarely sells out, so you can usually walk in, but it closes earlier in winter, so check the seasonal hours.

Evening

• Hofbräuhaus2h

  End the day at the Hofbräuhaus, the 1589 state beer hall, for a litre Maß under the vaulted ceiling with a brass band playing; come early in the evening for a table without a wait. Steer clear of the benches marked Stammtisch, which are reserved for regulars.

  TipThe famous state-owned beer hall dates to 1589 and pours its Hofbräu by the litre Maß under vaulted ceilings, with a brass band playing in the main hall most days from late morning. It is unashamedly touristy and packed by evening, so come at lunch for a table without a wait, and remember the long communal benches marked Stammtisch are reserved for regulars.

• Asamkirche20 min

  If there is light left, detour along Sendlinger Strasse to the tiny Asamkirche, the Asam brothers' private chapel where every surface drips with gilded baroque decoration. It is free and takes only ten minutes.

  TipThis tiny late-baroque church on Sendlinger Strasse was built by the Asam brothers as their private chapel, and every surface drips with gilded, theatrical decoration crammed into a narrow space. Entry is free and it takes only ten minutes, so slot it in while walking the Sendlinger Strasse shopping street; step in quietly, as services and prayer still take place.

Morning

• The Pinakotheken and the Kunstareal2h

  Head to the Kunstareal quarter and pick one or two of the Pinakothek galleries rather than all three; if it is a Sunday, the Bavarian state galleries drop to 1 EUR entry, so expect company for the bargain. The Alte Pinakothek's old masters are the obvious choice for a first visit.

  TipThe Kunstareal art quarter clusters the Alte Pinakothek (old masters), Neue Pinakothek and Pinakothek der Moderne within a couple of blocks; on Sundays the Bavarian state galleries drop admission to just 1 EUR, so expect a busier crowd for the bargain. Pick one or two rather than all three in a day, and note the Neue Pinakothek is closed for a long renovation, with its highlights shown at the Alte Pinakothek meanwhile.

• 1h

  Break for a coffee and a cheap bite in student Maxvorstadt, the museum and university quarter, where prices are fairer than the old town. The cafes around the campuses are good for a relaxed lunch.

Afternoon

• English Garden and the Eisbach Surfers1h30

  Walk into the English Garden and start at the Eisbach wave just inside the southern entrance by the Haus der Kunst, where surfers ride the standing river wave all year for free. Then stroll up through the park toward the Chinese Tower.

  TipOne of the largest city parks in the world, the English Garden is free and open around the clock, with surfers riding the standing Eisbach wave just inside the southern entrance near the Haus der Kunst, where you can watch them for free all year. Walk up to the Chinese Tower beer garden for a litre of beer under the chestnut trees in season, and note that a stretch of the park is a well-known nudist area on warm days.

• 1h15

  Settle in at the Chinese Tower beer garden under the chestnut trees for a litre of beer and a plate of roast chicken or Obatzda in season. This is the classic Munich beer-garden afternoon, weather permitting.

Evening

• 2h

  Head south into the Glockenbachviertel, the trendiest district and the heart of the city's nightlife, and start around Gärtnerplatz where the bars and small restaurants cluster. Book a table if you want a proper sit-down dinner on a weekend.

• 1h30

  Round off the night bar-hopping the Glockenbach streets or walking down to the Isar riverbanks if the weather is warm. It is an easy walk back to an Altstadt base from here.