These cost nothing and carry a full day each. Build around them and the paid tickets become optional extras instead of a budget drain.
Diocletian's Palace and the Peristyle
FreeTipThe palace is not a ticketed site but the living old town itself, free to wander at any hour, so walk the marble lanes at 7am or after dinner for empty photos before and after the cruise groups fill them. Head for the Peristyle, the colonnaded imperial courtyard at its heart, where a costumed Roman guard poses by the black Egyptian sphinx brought here in Diocletian's time and cafe cushions spill down the ancient steps.
Cathedral of St Domnius and Bell Tower
FreeTipThe cathedral was built as Diocletian's own mausoleum, making it one of the oldest buildings used as a church anywhere, and the emperor who persecuted Christians now lies replaced by the relics of the martyr he killed. A combined ticket of a few euros covers the church, the crypt and the treasury; pay the extra to climb the steep, narrow Romanesque bell tower for the finest view over the red rooftops and the harbour, but it is not for anyone unsteady on open stairs.
Diocletian's Cellars (Substructures)
FreeTipThese vast vaulted halls under the southern half of the palace held the emperor's storerooms and now mirror the shape of the imperial apartments that stood above, kept cool and atmospheric year round. The central passage that links the Riva to the Peristyle is free to walk through and lined with craft stalls, while the ticketed side chambers of a few euros are where Daenerys kept her dragons in Game of Thrones.
TipThe Riva is Split's palm-lined marble seafront promenade, running along the harbour below the white southern wall of the palace, and it is the city's living room where locals take their evening stroll and morning coffee. It is free and always open, so time a coffee here for late afternoon when the light hits the palace wall, and it is the front row for the Advent lights in December and festival stages in summer.
TipMarjan is the forested peninsula of pine and rock that rises just west of the centre, a nature park laced with walking and cycling trails and old hermit chapels tucked into the cliffs. Climb the steps up from Varos to the Prva vidilica cafe for the classic view over the old town, then push on along the ridge to the Telegrin summit at 178 metres for the full panorama of the coast and islands; go early or toward sunset to dodge the midday heat, and carry water as shade thins near the top.
TipKlis is the long stone fortress strung along a rocky ridge above Split, guarding the pass inland, and its ramparts give a sweeping view back over the city and the sea to the islands. Take Promet bus 22 from the market by the palace out to the village in about 30 minutes, entry is a few euros, and Game of Thrones fans will recognise it as Meereen, the city Daenerys freed from its slavers.
Golden Gate and Gregory of Nin Statue
FreeTipThe Golden Gate was the grand northern entrance to Diocletian's palace, facing the imperial road to Salona, and just outside it stands Ivan Mestrovic's towering bronze of Gregory of Nin, the medieval bishop who fought for services in the Croatian tongue. It is free, and the tradition is to rub the statue's big toe, worn gold and shiny by millions of hands, for good luck, so join the queue for the rub and the photo.