These cost nothing and carry a full day each. Build around them and the paid tickets become optional extras instead of a budget drain.
Town Hall Square and the Gothic Town Hall
FreeTipRaekoja plats is free and open all day, ringed by pastel merchant houses and anchored by the 1404 Gothic town hall, the only surviving one of its kind in northern Europe. Climb the tower for a small fee in summer, and come before 10am or after the cruise ships leave to shoot the square without the crowds; in December it fills with the Christmas market and a giant tree.
Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform
FreeTipThis is the classic free postcard view over the lower town's red roofs, spires and the port, on the eastern edge of Toompea by the wall reading 'The Times We Had'. It gets busy, so arrive early for a clear shot, then walk two minutes to the quieter Patkuli platform on the north side for the towers and the sea beyond.
Patkuli Viewing Platform
FreeTipThe second free Toompea viewpoint looks northwest over the old town wall's cluster of towers, the railway station and the Baltic, and it is usually less mobbed than Kohtuotsa. A long staircase drops from here straight down toward Balti Jaam market and Kalamaja, so use it to link the upper town with the hip district in one walk.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
FreeTipThe onion-domed Russian Orthodox cathedral opposite Toompea Castle was completed in 1900 and its interior of icons and mosaics is free to enter, though photography inside is not allowed and shoulders should be covered. Time your visit for the top of the hour to hear its eleven bells, then cross the square to the parliament.
St Olaf's Church Tower
FreeTipOnce reputedly the tallest building in the world around 1500, St Olaf's tower is open to climb seasonally, usually April to October, for a small cash fee, up a very tight, steep 258-step spiral staircase with no lift. The reward is a 360-degree view over the old town and the sea, but skip it if you have knees or claustrophobia issues.
Toompea Castle and Parliament
FreeTipToompea Castle houses the Riigikogu, Estonia's parliament, behind a pink 18th-century facade, with the medieval Tall Hermann tower where the national flag is raised at sunrise each day. The courtyard is free to walk into, and free guided tours of the parliament run on some weekdays if you book ahead through the Riigikogu website.
St Catherine's Passage and the Craft Lanes
FreeTipKatariina kaik is a narrow covered medieval lane linking Vene and Muurivahe streets, lined with the workshops of the St Catherine's Guild where glassblowers, potters and hatmakers work behind open doors. It is free to wander and the studios keep daytime hours, so come in the afternoon, then browse the woollen-sweater sellers along the wall on Muurivahe.
Estonian Open Air Museum
FreeTipThis 72-hectare open-air museum at Rocca al Mare, about 8km west of the centre, gathers relocated wooden farmhouses, a church, a schoolhouse and windmills across a forested seaside park, staffed in summer with craft demonstrations. Allow a half day and reach it on bus 21 from the Balti Jaam station; it is an easy option if you have a third day and want green space and Estonian rural history.