These cost nothing and carry a full day each. Build around them and the paid tickets become optional extras instead of a budget drain.
TipWalk it downhill from the castle to Holyrood so gravity is on your side, and duck into the free narrow closes off it, like Dunbar's Close garden or the Real Mary King's Close area, for the real medieval texture. Skip the tartan tat shops on the main drag; the interesting bits are down the side stairways, and early morning is the only time it is quiet.
Arthur's Seat and Holyrood Park
FreeTipClimb the extinct volcano for the best free panorama in Edinburgh: it is about 45 minutes up from the Holyrood side, and the gentler path from Dunsapie Loch is the easiest line to the summit. Wear real shoes and a windproof, as the top is exposed and the weather turns fast, and go early morning or a long summer evening for the light and the space.
TipThis is the easy classic skyline shot: a flat 10-minute walk up from the east end of Princes Street gets you the postcard view down the Old Town spine to the castle, framed by the mock-Greek monuments. It is free and open all hours; come at sunset or blue hour for the best light, and it is far less effort than Arthur's Seat for a nearly-as-good panorama.
Princes Street Gardens
FreeTipThis free valley park sits in the drained old loch bed directly below the castle rock, giving you the classic look-up-at-the-castle view without paying for anything. Walk the lower path for the best angle, rest on the grass on a rare sunny afternoon, and note the Christmas market and big fair take over the eastern half from late November.
TipA former milling hamlet on the Water of Leith, this cluster of turreted stone houses is a 15-minute walk from Princes Street and one of the city's prettiest quiet corners. Reach it along the riverside walkway rather than the road, come early before the small lanes fill with photographers, and keep the noise down as people actually live here.
TipThis atmospheric old graveyard is free and open in daylight, and worth it for the loyal-dog statue of Greyfriars Bobby at the gate and the headstone names, Riddell, McGonagall, Potter, said to have inspired Harry Potter characters. Go in the late afternoon for the eerie light, and it sits right beside the National Museum so pair the two.
TipThe curving, pastel-fronted shopfronts of this steep Old Town street are the most photographed streetscape in Edinburgh and a rumoured model for Diagon Alley. Shoot it from the terrace of Victoria Terrace up top for the full sweep, come before 9am to beat the crowds, and browse the genuinely good independent bookshops and cheese shops rather than the wizard tat.
TipThe soot-black Gothic rocket on Princes Street is the largest monument to a writer in the world, and you can climb its 287 narrow spiral steps for a small fee to a series of tight balconies with rooftop views. The staircase gets steep and claustrophobic near the top so it is not for everyone, but the second-tier view over the gardens to the castle is the payoff.