Vilnius in 2 days

Morning

• Cathedral Square and the Bell Tower1h

  Start in Cathedral Square, step inside the free Cathedral and find the Stebuklas tile where the 1989 Baltic Way human chain began. Climb the free-standing Bell Tower for a small fee if you want the first view down the square.

  TipThe neoclassical Cathedral and its wide square are free to enter and open daily, and the free-standing Bell Tower alongside is one of the oldest structures in the city; you can climb it for a small fee for a view down the square. Look for the Stebuklas, the single tile marking the spot where the 1989 Baltic Way human chain to Tallinn began, and make a wish by turning on it as locals do.

• Gediminas Castle Tower1h

  Head up the Gediminas hill behind the square, either on the ten-minute climb or the little funicular, to the red-brick tower for the classic panorama over the red roofs. Pay the small entry for the open top platform and the little museum.

  TipThe red-brick tower on the hill above Cathedral Square is the classic old-town viewpoint, reached by a short steep climb of about ten minutes or a funicular that runs from behind the Applied Arts museum for a couple of euros. Go up for sunset over the red roofs and the spires, and pay the small entry if you want the little museum and the open top platform.

Afternoon

• Vilnius University and St Johns' Church1h30

  Walk down into the university, one of the oldest in eastern Europe, and wander its thirteen linked courtyards on a small ticket. Pay the extra to climb the St Johns' Church tower and look into the frescoed church interior.

  TipFounded in 1579, this is one of the oldest universities in eastern Europe, a warren of thirteen linked courtyards you enter through the gate on Universiteto street for a small ticket, cheaper if you skip the bell tower. Pay the extra to climb the St Johns' Church tower for a view over the courtyards, and look into the frescoed church interior and the vaulted Litteraria bookshop while you are inside.

• Literatu Street20 min

  Cut through Literatu street, the short cobbled lane hung with small artworks honouring writers tied to the city, on your way south. It takes only a few minutes but rewards a slow look in daylight.

  TipThis short cobbled lane between the university and Uzupis is covered on one side by an open-air gallery of small artworks, each a tribute to a writer with a link to Vilnius, and it is free to walk at any hour. It takes only a few minutes but rewards a slow look, so catch it in daylight for the details and use it as the pretty shortcut between the old town and the river.

• Gates of Dawn45 min

  Follow Pilies and Ausros Vartu streets down to the Gates of Dawn, the last surviving city gate, and climb the stairs to the gold-clad icon in its chapel above the arch. Cover shoulders and keep quiet, as it is an active shrine.

  TipThe last surviving city gate holds a chapel above the arch with a gold-clad icon of the Virgin drawing pilgrims from across the region, and it is free and open daily; reach it up the stairs from the shop beside the gate. Cover shoulders and keep quiet as this is an active shrine, and combine it with the pink Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit and St Teresa's church a few steps north.

Evening

• Cepelinai and Craft Beer1h30

  Settle into an old-town tavern for cepelinai, the heavy stuffed potato dumplings that are the national dish, for well under 10 EUR a plate, with a Lithuanian craft beer alongside. Go a touch early, as the portions are large and filling.

  TipTry cepelinai, the heavy potato dumplings stuffed with meat and dressed with sour cream and bacon, the national dish, at an old-town tavern such as Etno Dvaras or Berneliu Uzeiga for well under 10 EUR a plate. Wash it down with a Lithuanian craft beer, as the country has a strong farmhouse brewing tradition, and go early for lunch since the dumplings are filling and portions are large.

• 1h

  Walk off dinner along the floodlit lanes around the Town Hall and Pilies street, which stay pretty and quiet once the day visitors have gone. Everything is close, so wander without a plan before turning in.

Morning

• St Anne's and the Bernardine Church45 min

  Start at slender Gothic St Anne's, the church Napoleon supposedly wanted to carry to Paris, and step into the larger Bernardine church beside it for its faded frescoes. Both are free outside Mass times.

  TipThis slender red-brick Gothic gem is the one Napoleon supposedly wanted to carry back to Paris on the palm of his hand, and it is free to step inside outside Mass times. Pair it with the larger Bernardine church right beside it, which hides faded medieval frescoes, then walk straight on into the Bernardine Gardens behind for the best angle on both facades.

• Uzupis and the Constitution Wall1h30

  Cross the little bridge over the Vilnia into Uzupis, the self-declared artists' republic, and read its playful constitution on mirrored plaques along Paupio street. Find the angel statue in the main square and drop into a gallery or two.

  TipCross the little bridge over the Vilnia to the self-declared republic of Uzupis and read its playful constitution, posted on mirrored plaques in dozens of languages along Paupio street, with clauses like the right of everyone to be happy. It is all free and open at any hour, so find the Uzupis angel statue on its column in the main square, drop into a gallery or two, and time a visit for 1 April if you want the passport stamps and street party.

Afternoon

• Church of St Peter and St Paul1h

  Take a short bus or a fifteen-minute walk northeast to the Church of St Peter and St Paul, whose plain facade hides a baroque interior of some 2,000 white stucco figures. It is free, so give it a proper half hour and look up for the boat-shaped chandelier.

  TipA plain facade in the Antakalnis district hides one of the great baroque interiors of Europe, worked over with some 2,000 white stucco figures across the ceilings and walls, and it is free to enter daily. Look up for the boat-shaped glass chandelier and give it a good half hour; it sits a fifteen-minute walk or a short bus ride northeast of the old town, so pair it with the Three Crosses hill.

• Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights1h45

  Head back toward the centre for the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights in the former KGB headquarters, walking the preserved basement prison cells. Buy the standard ticket at the door and allow at least ninety minutes; check it is not a closed day.

  TipSet in the former KGB headquarters on Gedimino prospektas, this sobering museum covers the Soviet and Nazi occupations and includes the preserved basement prison cells and the execution chamber, walked in the actual rooms where prisoners were held. Buy the standard ticket at the door, allow at least ninety minutes, and note it closes on Mondays and Tuesdays outside peak season, so check before you go.

Evening

• Bernardine Gardens and the Vilnia River40 min

  Wander into the Bernardine Gardens behind St Anne's, the best green break in the old town, and follow the Vilnia river to the foot of the hill. Grab a coffee to take up with you.

  TipThis restored park behind St Anne's is free and open daily, with lawns, a fountain, a botanical section and the Vilnia river running along its edge toward Uzupis. It is the best green break in the old town and the natural staging point for the climb up to the Three Crosses, so bring a coffee and use it to link the Gothic churches with the hill.

• Hill of Three Crosses1h30

  Climb the fifteen-minute stepped path to the Hill of Three Crosses for the widest free panorama over the old town, timed for the last hour of light. Wear grippy shoes, then come down for a final dinner in the lanes below.

  TipThe white crosses on this wooded hill in Kalnai Park are free and open at all hours, reached by a fifteen-minute uphill walk on stepped paths from the Bernardine Gardens side. It gives the widest free panorama over the old town, best in the last hour of light, so bring water for the climb and wear grippy shoes as the paths get muddy after rain.