Vilnius in 3 days

Morning

• Cathedral Square and the Bell Tower1h

  Start in Cathedral Square, step inside the free Cathedral and find the Stebuklas tile marking where the 1989 Baltic Way human chain began. Climb the free-standing Bell Tower for a small fee for the first view down the square.

  TipThe neoclassical Cathedral and its wide square are free to enter and open daily, and the free-standing Bell Tower alongside is one of the oldest structures in the city; you can climb it for a small fee for a view down the square. Look for the Stebuklas, the single tile marking the spot where the 1989 Baltic Way human chain to Tallinn began, and make a wish by turning on it as locals do.

• Gediminas Castle Tower1h

  Go up the Gediminas hill behind the square, on foot or by the little funicular, to the red-brick tower for the classic view over the red roofs and spires. Pay the small entry for the top platform and the museum inside.

  TipThe red-brick tower on the hill above Cathedral Square is the classic old-town viewpoint, reached by a short steep climb of about ten minutes or a funicular that runs from behind the Applied Arts museum for a couple of euros. Go up for sunset over the red roofs and the spires, and pay the small entry if you want the little museum and the open top platform.

Afternoon

• Vilnius University and St Johns' Church1h30

  Drop into the university, one of the oldest in eastern Europe, and wander its thirteen linked courtyards on a small ticket, climbing the St Johns' Church tower if you want the view. Look into the frescoed church interior on the way through.

  TipFounded in 1579, this is one of the oldest universities in eastern Europe, a warren of thirteen linked courtyards you enter through the gate on Universiteto street for a small ticket, cheaper if you skip the bell tower. Pay the extra to climb the St Johns' Church tower for a view over the courtyards, and look into the frescoed church interior and the vaulted Litteraria bookshop while you are inside.

• Literatu Street20 min

  Take Literatu street, the short lane hung with small artworks honouring writers tied to Vilnius, as the pretty shortcut south. A few minutes is enough, but catch it in daylight for the details.

  TipThis short cobbled lane between the university and Uzupis is covered on one side by an open-air gallery of small artworks, each a tribute to a writer with a link to Vilnius, and it is free to walk at any hour. It takes only a few minutes but rewards a slow look, so catch it in daylight for the details and use it as the pretty shortcut between the old town and the river.

• Gates of Dawn1h

  Follow Pilies and Ausros Vartu down to the Gates of Dawn, the last surviving city gate, and climb to the gold-clad icon in its chapel above the arch. Combine it with the pink Church of the Holy Spirit a few steps north.

  TipThe last surviving city gate holds a chapel above the arch with a gold-clad icon of the Virgin drawing pilgrims from across the region, and it is free and open daily; reach it up the stairs from the shop beside the gate. Cover shoulders and keep quiet as this is an active shrine, and combine it with the pink Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit and St Teresa's church a few steps north.

Evening

• Cepelinai and Craft Beer1h30

  Settle into an old-town tavern for cepelinai, the stuffed potato dumplings that are the national dish, for well under 10 EUR a plate, with a Lithuanian craft beer. Go early, as the portions are large and filling.

  TipTry cepelinai, the heavy potato dumplings stuffed with meat and dressed with sour cream and bacon, the national dish, at an old-town tavern such as Etno Dvaras or Berneliu Uzeiga for well under 10 EUR a plate. Wash it down with a Lithuanian craft beer, as the country has a strong farmhouse brewing tradition, and go early for lunch since the dumplings are filling and portions are large.

• 1h

  Wander the floodlit lanes around Pilies street and the Town Hall afterward, quiet and pretty once the day visitors leave. Everything is close, so stroll without a plan before turning in.

Morning

• St Anne's and the Bernardine Church45 min

  Start at slender Gothic St Anne's, the church Napoleon supposedly wanted to carry to Paris, and step into the Bernardine church beside it for its faded frescoes. Both are free outside Mass times.

  TipThis slender red-brick Gothic gem is the one Napoleon supposedly wanted to carry back to Paris on the palm of his hand, and it is free to step inside outside Mass times. Pair it with the larger Bernardine church right beside it, which hides faded medieval frescoes, then walk straight on into the Bernardine Gardens behind for the best angle on both facades.

• Uzupis and the Constitution Wall2h

  Cross the bridge over the Vilnia into Uzupis and read its tongue-in-cheek constitution on the mirrored plaques along Paupio street, at a slow pace with time for the galleries and the angel statue. This is the day to linger over a riverside coffee rather than rush.

  TipCross the little bridge over the Vilnia to the self-declared republic of Uzupis and read its playful constitution, posted on mirrored plaques in dozens of languages along Paupio street, with clauses like the right of everyone to be happy. It is all free and open at any hour, so find the Uzupis angel statue on its column in the main square, drop into a gallery or two, and time a visit for 1 April if you want the passport stamps and street party.

Afternoon

• Church of St Peter and St Paul1h

  Take a short bus or a fifteen-minute walk to the Church of St Peter and St Paul, whose plain facade hides a baroque interior of some 2,000 white stucco figures. It is free, so give it a proper half hour and look up for the boat-shaped chandelier.

  TipA plain facade in the Antakalnis district hides one of the great baroque interiors of Europe, worked over with some 2,000 white stucco figures across the ceilings and walls, and it is free to enter daily. Look up for the boat-shaped glass chandelier and give it a good half hour; it sits a fifteen-minute walk or a short bus ride northeast of the old town, so pair it with the Three Crosses hill.

• Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights1h45

  Head back toward the centre for the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights in the former KGB building, walking the preserved basement prison cells. Buy the ticket at the door, allow at least ninety minutes, and check it is not a closed day.

  TipSet in the former KGB headquarters on Gedimino prospektas, this sobering museum covers the Soviet and Nazi occupations and includes the preserved basement prison cells and the execution chamber, walked in the actual rooms where prisoners were held. Buy the standard ticket at the door, allow at least ninety minutes, and note it closes on Mondays and Tuesdays outside peak season, so check before you go.

Evening

• Bernardine Gardens and the Vilnia River40 min

  Ease into the Bernardine Gardens behind St Anne's for a green break, then follow the Vilnia river to the foot of the hill with a coffee to take up. It is the natural staging point for the climb.

  TipThis restored park behind St Anne's is free and open daily, with lawns, a fountain, a botanical section and the Vilnia river running along its edge toward Uzupis. It is the best green break in the old town and the natural staging point for the climb up to the Three Crosses, so bring a coffee and use it to link the Gothic churches with the hill.

• Hill of Three Crosses1h30

  Climb the fifteen-minute stepped path to the Hill of Three Crosses for the widest free panorama over the old town, timed for the last hour of light. Wear grippy shoes, then come down for dinner in the lanes.

  TipThe white crosses on this wooded hill in Kalnai Park are free and open at all hours, reached by a fifteen-minute uphill walk on stepped paths from the Bernardine Gardens side. It gives the widest free panorama over the old town, best in the last hour of light, so bring water for the climb and wear grippy shoes as the paths get muddy after rain.

Morning

• Trakai Island Castle3h

  Ride the frequent bus or train about 30 minutes out to Trakai and walk the footbridges to the red-brick castle on its island in Lake Galve, the country's postcard sight. Buy the museum ticket at the gate and take your time over the courtyards and the lake views.

  TipThe red-brick castle on an island in Lake Galve is the country's postcard sight, reached in about 30 minutes by frequent bus or train from Vilnius, then a short walk over the footbridges. Buy the museum ticket at the castle gate, allow half a day for the round trip, and try kibinai, the local Karaim meat pastries, from a lakeside cafe before you head back.

• 1h

  Before you head back, try kibinai, the local Karaim meat pastries, from a lakeside cafe in Trakai town, a legacy of the community the medieval grand dukes settled here. It is a cheap, filling lunch with a lake view.

Afternoon

• 1h30

  Ride back into Vilnius by mid-afternoon and use the slower time to fill any gap, perhaps the pink Orthodox churches near the Gates of Dawn or the pretty courtyards you skipped on the first day. Nothing here is far apart.

• Cathedral Square and the Bell Tower45 min

  Circle back to Cathedral Square for a last coffee and a turn on the Stebuklas tile, the wish-making spot where the Baltic Way began. It is the natural place to end a Vilnius trip.

  TipThe neoclassical Cathedral and its wide square are free to enter and open daily, and the free-standing Bell Tower alongside is one of the oldest structures in the city; you can climb it for a small fee for a view down the square. Look for the Stebuklas, the single tile marking the spot where the 1989 Baltic Way human chain to Tallinn began, and make a wish by turning on it as locals do.

Evening

• Cepelinai and Craft Beer1h30

  Take a last dinner in the old town, another round of cepelinai or the lighter potato pancakes with a Lithuanian craft beer, all for very little. Prices here stay low right to the end.

  TipTry cepelinai, the heavy potato dumplings stuffed with meat and dressed with sour cream and bacon, the national dish, at an old-town tavern such as Etno Dvaras or Berneliu Uzeiga for well under 10 EUR a plate. Wash it down with a Lithuanian craft beer, as the country has a strong farmhouse brewing tradition, and go early for lunch since the dumplings are filling and portions are large.

• 30 min

  If tomorrow is an early flight, remember the airport is only about 6km south: the train from the central station reaches it in about 7 minutes for around 1 EUR, or a Bolt runs around 7 to 10 EUR. Allow a little buffer at rush hour.